What Are the Two Main Types of Door Locks, and Which One Is Best for Me? – Bob Vila

The Two Main Types of Door Locks (In Plain English)

Most residential entry doors boil down to two categories:

• Traditional keyed locks: You use a physical key to unlock the door from the outside.
• Keyless locks (smart or electronic): You unlock with a code, phone, fob, fingerprint, or a mix of the above.

Both types can be secure. Both types can also be… spectacularly insecure if installed poorly or used carelessly.
(A $300 lock can’t protect you from a spare key under the doormat. That’s not a lock problem. That’s a sitcom problem.)

Type 1: Traditional Keyed Locks

Keyed locks are the default choice for a reason: they’re familiar, reliable, and they don’t care if your Wi-Fi is
having a bad day. You insert key, turn key, door opens. Simple. Gloriously simple.

The Most Important Subtype: The Deadbolt

If your exterior door has only a locking doorknob, your lock is basically doing the security equivalent of “thoughts and prayers.”
For true entry-door security, you want a deadbolta thick bolt that extends into the door frame and resists brute force.

A typical “full” front-door setup is a handle/knob (for latching) plus a deadbolt (for real protection). The knob latch keeps the door
closed; the deadbolt helps keep unwanted visitors out.

Security Ratings: Grades That Actually Mean Something

Not all deadbolts are created equal. Many locks are tested and graded using ANSI/BHMA standards. In general:

• Grade 1: Highest performance (common in commercial or high-security residential applications).
• Grade 2: Strong choice for most homessolid balance of performance and cost.
• Grade 3: Basic residential gradefine for low-risk areas or interior doors, not ideal for your main entry if security is the priority.

Some residential lock marketing also uses a “AAA” style score for security, durability, and finish. The key takeaway: look for independently
tested hardware and aim high for exterior doors.

Why Keyed Locks Still Win on “Physical Hardening”

If your goal is to make forced entry loud, slow, and annoying (the holy trinity of deterrence), keyed hardware gives you tons of flexibility:

• Reinforced strike plates with long screws that bite deep into the wall stud
• Door jamb reinforcement kits
• Solid-core or metal doors (because a strong lock on a flimsy door is like a vault door on a tent)
• Upgraded cylinders for better resistance to picking/drilling in higher-risk situations

In other words: you can build a “lock + door + frame” system that’s much harder to kick in than a lock alone.

The Downsides of Keyed Locks

• Keys get lost (and then you pay the locksmith tax).
• Keys get copied (sometimes by people who should not have copies).
• Key management is a chore if you have kids, dog walkers, cleaners, contractors, guests, or a busy household.

If you’ve ever stood outside your own front door thinking, “I live here. I pay taxes here. Why am I locked out of here?”you understand.

Type 2: Keyless Locks (Smart or Electronic)

Keyless locks are designed to solve the key problem. Instead of handing someone a metal object that grants 24/7 access until the end of time,
you can give a code, set a schedule, and delete access when you’re done. That’s not just convenienceit’s better access control.

Keyless Lock Styles You’ll Actually See in the Wild

• Keypad deadbolts: Enter a PIN to unlock (often still includes a key override).
• Smart locks (Bluetooth / Wi-Fi / Thread): Use an app, automation, remote access, and activity logs.
• Fingerprint / biometric locks: Quick entry, but quality varies widely.
• Retrofit smart locks: Install over the inside thumbturn so you keep existing exterior hardware (popular for renters).

What Smart Locks Do Better Than Keys

• Guest access: Create codes for dog walkers, neighbors, or contractorsand revoke them instantly.
• Schedules: Codes that only work on weekdays 10–2, or only during a rental stay.
• Auto-lock: Because humans are famously bad at remembering thingsespecially when carrying groceries.
• Notifications and logs: “Door unlocked at 3:42 PM.” Helpful for kids, caregivers, or short-term rentals.

What Smart Locks Don’t Magically Fix

Smart locks aren’t automatically “more secure.” They introduce additional factors you must manage:

• Batteries: If you ignore low-battery alerts long enough, the lock will eventually ignore you back.
• Connectivity and accounts: Remote access depends on your network and your app security.
• Physical strength still matters: A smart deadbolt on a weak frame can still be forced.

Here’s the mindset that keeps you sane: smart locks upgrade convenience and access control. Physical security still depends heavily
on the deadbolt, the strike plate, and the door/frame build.

“But Can It Be Hacked?” (A Practical Answer)

The theoretical answer is “yes, anything can be attacked.” The practical answer is: most break-ins still rely on
opportunistic entryunlocked doors, weak frames, or brute force. Your best move is layered security:

• Choose a smart lock with a real deadbolt and a strong rating.
• Use unique PIN codes per person (no “1234,” no birthdays, no address numbers).
• Turn on two-factor authentication for the account if offered.
• Keep firmware/app updated (set updates to auto if possible).
• Pair with a video doorbell or camera if you want visibility and deterrence.

So… Which One Is Best for You?

Let’s turn this into a simple decision that doesn’t require a flowchart drawn in espresso.

My Most Common Recommendation (Because Most Homes Are “Normal”)

For many households, the sweet spot looks like this:

• A solid deadbolt (Grade 2 minimum; Grade 1 if you want to go heavy-duty)
• A reinforced strike plate with long screws
• Optional: add a keypad/smart function if you want convenience and code-based access

You can also mix and match. Plenty of homeowners choose a traditional keyed setup on the front door (formal, visible, classic),
and a smart lock on a side/back door (family traffic, groceries, everyday chaos).

Don’t Skip This: The Door Itself Is Part of the Security System

If you take only one idea from this article, take this one: a lock is only as strong as the door and frame it’s attached to.
Forced entry often targets weak pointsdoor jambs, strike plates, flimsy screws, and doors that flex.

Quick upgrades that deliver real bang for your buck:

• Install a heavy-duty strike plate and use long screws that anchor into the framing.
• Consider a door jamb reinforcement kit if your area has higher break-in risk.
• Check your hinges: long hinge screws help keep the door aligned and resistant to flex.
• Make sure the deadbolt fully extends and aligns cleanly (misalignment causes wear and weak locking).

Shopping Checklist: What to Look for (Keyed or Keyless)

For the lock hardware

• Deadbolt-first design for exterior doors (avoid relying on a locking knob alone).
• Tested grade/ratings (aim for stronger grades on exterior doors).
• Solid bolt throw and sturdy construction (strong materials, tight tolerances).
• Pick/drill resistance if you’re in a higher-risk situation (consider higher-security cylinders where appropriate).

For smart/keyless features

• Multiple entry methods (PIN + key override, or PIN + app, depending on your preference).
• Battery alerts and an emergency access plan (some models support backup power methods).
• Guest codes with schedules, plus easy removal of access.
• Local-control friendly options if you want fewer cloud dependencies (varies by ecosystem and model).

Installation and Maintenance Tips (That Prevent Headaches Later)

• Rekey or replace locks when you move in. You don’t know who has old keysprevious owners, contractors, neighbors, a mysterious raccoon with a key ring…
• Test the door alignment before blaming the lock. Many “bad locks” are actually “crooked doors.”
• For smart locks: set a recurring reminder to check batteries, update firmware, and review active guest codes.
• Practice your backup plan: if your lock supports a physical key override, keep a spare in a safe place (not under the mat; we’ve been over this).

Real-World Experiences Homeowners Commonly Run Into (and What They Learn)

The funniest thing about door locks is that you rarely think about themuntil the exact moment you desperately need them to work. And when you talk to
homeowners about why they switched from keyed to keyless (or sprinted back to keyed after trying smart locks), the stories sound different, but the themes
are hilariously consistent: people want fewer lockouts, fewer key copies, and fewer “Wait… did I lock the door?” moments.

One common scenario is the busy-hands problem. Picture a parent juggling groceries, a diaper bag, and a child who has suddenly decided that
“walking” is a conspiracy. With a keyed lock, you’re doing that awkward one-elbow balance while fishing for keys like you’re playing a stressful carnival game.
With a keypad, it’s a quick code and you’re inno keyring acrobatics required. That’s why many families love keypad deadbolts even if they never use the
“smart” features. It’s not about being futuristic; it’s about getting inside without dropping the eggs.

Then there’s the teenager and spare key saga. Some families start out with keyed locks and a spare key plan. The plan goes like this:
“We’ll hide a key somewhere safe.” The reality goes like this: “We hid the key somewhere ‘safe’ and now we can’t find it… but somehow your friend’s cousin can.”
Households that move to keyless often do it because they’re tired of managing physical keys that wander off, get copied, or live in backpacks that disappear
into the same void as missing socks.

Renters often have a different experience: permission and reversibility. They want keyless convenience, but they also want to avoid drilling,
changing exterior hardware, or annoying a landlord. That’s where retrofit smart locks become popular: you keep the outside looking normal and upgrade the inside.
The “win” is getting app control or scheduled access without permanently altering the door. The lesson renters learn quickly is to measure twice and confirm
compatibility oncebecause not every door and deadbolt shape plays nicely with every retrofit design.

Short-term rental hosts (and anyone who has ever handed off a key to a guest) love smart locks for one reason: access management. Unique codes per
guest stay can reduce awkward meetups, late-night “we can’t find the lockbox” calls, and the nightmare of a missing physical key. Hosts also learn that the best
smart lock feature isn’t the appit’s the habit of changing codes automatically and paying attention to battery alerts before the next check-in.

Of course, keyless locks come with their own “plot twists.” The classic is the low-battery surprise: the lock warns you for weeks, you ignore it, and
then one night it decides it’s done negotiating. Homeowners who love smart locks tend to be the ones who treat them like smoke alarms: set a reminder, swap batteries
proactively, and test the backup entry method so it’s not your first time using it at 11:47 PM in the rain.

Finally, there’s the experience that changes people’s minds the fastest: a door that “locks” but isn’t reinforced. Many homeowners upgrade the lock and
assume the job is finished. Then they learn (sometimes from a contractor, sometimes from a not-fun incident) that the door frame and strike plate matter just as much.
The most satisfied homeowners are usually the ones who combine a good deadbolt with a reinforced strike plate and long screwsbecause convenience is great, but a door
that holds up under pressure is even better.

The takeaway from all these real-life situations is simple: pick the lock type that matches your daily life, then make sure the door and frame are worthy teammates.
That’s how you get security that works in the real worldnot just on the packaging.